Cotton and brigandine armours of the Ming Dynasty

Mian Jia (棉甲, cotton armour)

Section of one of the pages of 'Rui Xi Xian Sheng Nian Pu (《瑞溪先生年譜》)', depicting a horseman wearing a long coat with cross hatch quilting pattern, possibly a cotton armour.

A Mian Jia is made of seven catties of cotton, sewn between two layer of clothes, then quilted in vertical and horizontal lines with thick thread. It is then soaked in water, stomped flat, then dried. This armour is usually knee-length, with very short sleeves that measure to five cun long.

The description of Mian Jia can be found in Jin Tang Jie Zhu Shi Er Chou (《金湯借箸十二籌》) and Yong Chuang Xiao Pin (《湧幢小品》), among other books. Unfortunately, no illustration of any kind can be found in any Ming Dynasty military treatises.

Another mention of cotton armour can be found in Ming Shi (《明史》, History of Ming), which describes "cotton armour of hundred fold" worn by the rebel cavalry of Li Zi Cheng (李自成) as "impervious to arrows and firearms".

Note that Chinese character Mian (棉, cotton) and Mian (綿, silk wadding) were used more or less interchangeably during Ming period, their distinctive meanings only became more apparent during Qing period.


Brigandine

Section of the Ming Dynasty scroll painting 'Chu Jing Tu (《出警图》)', depicting Ming cavalrymen in brigandine armour.

Section of the Ming Dynasty scroll painting 'Wang Qiong Shi Ji Tu Ce (《王瓊事蹟圖冊》)', depicting Ming cavalrymen in short brigandine waistcoat.

Brigandine was the most common armour throughout Ming and Qing period, particularly in North China. So common, in fact, that few military authors even bothered to include it into their treatises.

Ming Dynasty brigandine comes in two varieties — a sleeveless, cap sleeved or short sleeved long coat known as Chang Shen Da Jia (長身大甲, lit. 'Long body great armour'), or a short waistcoat known as Qi Yao Jia (齊腰甲, lit. 'Wasit-length armour'). Both varieties are single-breasted and collarless, with cover fabric usually made of ramie or cotton cloth. They generally do not include spaudlers or pauldrons. Instead, separate all-metal armguards were used to protect upper limbs.

Contrary to popular misconception, Chinese brigandine was NEVER called Dingjia (釘甲, nail armour). In Modern Chinese, brigandine is known as Bu Mian Jia (布面甲, lit. 'armour with cloth surface'), while it was simply known by generic names such as "armour" or "iron armour" during Ming and Qing period. Brigandine and lacquered lamellar armour were also referred to as An Jia (暗甲, lit. 'Dark armour' or 'Hidden armour') vis-à-vis polished lamellar armour's Ming Jia (明甲, lit. 'Bright armour' or 'Exposed armour').



Faux brigandine?

Brigandine armour of Qian Feng Ying (前鋒營, vanguard regiment) of the Qing Dynasty Imperial Guards, from 'Huang Chao Li Qi Tu Shi (《皇朝禮器圖式》)'.

Studded cotton armour of the Qian Feng Ying (前鋒營) of the Qing Dynasty Imperial Guards, from 'Huang Chao Li Qi Tu Shi (《皇朝禮器圖式》)'.

It is a misconception that Chinese only used the so-called faux brigandine — garment with the outward appearance of a brigandine armour, but without metal plates attached to the rivets from the inside — as military uniform or ceremonial armour. This is only true for late Qing period, in which by this time body armour ceased to be practical. Both brigandine and studded armour of all kinds (paper, cotton or leather) were used as field armour throughout Ming and Qing period.

A Qing Dynasty Mian Jia shares the same outward appearance as a brigandine, but replaces the steel plates of a brigandine with cotton padding. It is cheaper and less protective than true brigandine, but still fully functional as a stand alone battle armour. Mian Jia was issued to second-line troops such as artillerymen and low quality troops such as the Lu Ying (綠營, Green Standard Army).